Mestia-Batumi

0959 Sat on bus. Semi-result. Four Japanese (I think) women on here with me. Two of them are going to Batumi and the sign in the bus window says Zugdidi and Batumi. I asked the driver and he doesn't go to Batumi but we can change in Zugdidi. So this suggests to me that the connection is probably possible, and that I can hopefully tag along with those two women at the bus terminal to find a bus to Batumi. Just hope there aren't only two seats on it. ;-)

Up as 0925 on second alarm, didn't want to get up but not too bad and not hungover. Breakfast at guesthouse, just about finished when bus turned up. Now am leaving will say place was Nino Ratiani's Guesthouse, as in guide book (though booked mainly because it was on hostelworld as well), very good on the whole (as per blog entries over last couple of days.)

1052 We've driven up some muddy track the bus can hardly handle unladen to fill up the seatless rear half with sacks of let's assume potatoes. If not for the connection in Zugdidi I could take this in my stride - the fact the bus is going to get bogged down is one of many things which are not my problem - and I am trying to not worry about the connection, worst comes to worst I just lose cost of night's accommodation and a day and stay back at Zugdidi hostel.

Driver has not reloaded our bags and is rocking bus forwards and backwards to try to get out of the mud (I assume). Track was tolerable except for the last ten metres, yes potatoes are heavy but could they really not lug them that extra bit by hand.

I think this is the same bus I came to Mestia in. The cracks in the windscreen look familiar, the dangling cross-in-circle-with-three-dangly-things very much so. Might well be same driver, would make sense if he touts my guesthouse and the owner uses his services for her guests.

I can see my bag has been re-loaded, which is a relief.

If we go over the edge of one of the cliff roads we can do our own low-budget Italian Job recreation.

1115 OK, we got away from there eventually without - gasp - getting stuck. We have now stopped at a junction in the middle of nowhere and the driver's got out. If he's having a whizz he's taking his time about it.

One of the guys I met last night said the road had been improved in the last 2-3 years. That would probably explain why the guidebook makes it out to be a 5-6h journey. One review on hostelworld incidentally mentioned doing it in 2.5h and said the driver 'used' by my hostel in Zugdidi was slow and he kept turning off everywhere. We picked up a woman and little girl with the potatoes. Still have a couple of seats free. But we're not picking up anyone here. Driver is on his phone, I think. Maybe he's having a row with his girlfriend, he has no qualms about using it while driving so I can only assume he wants privacy. I don't think the Japanese women speak Georgian but presumably the woman with the little girl does.

Oh, on the bus to Mestia because it was dark and I sat in front, I thought it was just me in the bus for a while, which was a bit weird.

1128 Still sat here. Weather seemed a bit better in Mestia today, I half wonder if I could have done the glacier. However I decided to leave having seen a weather forecast which said it might be a bit better (and another mentioning the possibility of snow) and after all I was torn about it even yesterday. Depending on what the trail is like it might have been bad after the rain on top of the potential risks if there had been snow. Also it was still just as cloudy as yesterday which would probably have impaired the view. As I think I said, something for next time...

1130 Ah, a woman has just turned up, presumably we were waiting for her. She appears to have arrived on a cow-drawn sled (wearing high heels and looking moderately elegant), which is bringing additional produce for us to carry. Honestly, this would all be great local colour if I wasn't worried about getting a connection to Batumi.

1354 On bus at Zugdidi for Batumi (waiting to leave). Driver of bus from Mestia sorted us out. Had to go into train station/bus terminal to buy a ticket, leaving my bag on the bus (driver had squeezed it into a shelf) which was bit worrying but back now with ticket hoping it will pass muster when guy comes for it. Some chap helped me order it at bus terminal window. GEL 12, I just had enough change to pay it exactly.

Have got myself a nice individual seat by the door. This bus is a bit larger and a bit more comfortable than the earlier one, though it is at the large minibus size rather than anything like a coach. (There is one full-sized coach at the terminal, no idea where it goes.)

1406 We're off. Guide book says it's 3h to Batumi. No one has checked my ticket but I think the guy who helped me by it has spoken to driver. I guess they'll just have to take cash if they don't like it now we've started.

Oh, the driver of the bus from Mestia was singing a bit as he drove. Fairly well too, insofar as I'm any judge.

1518 Probably in Poti. Feeling a bit cold earlier and sort of sleepy. Wondering if I should eat something, but don't really feel hungry. We are stopped here with the door open and it is a bit chilly. Yes, GPS says Poti.

1645 Got here 5 mins ago. No bus terminal, just chucked off at side of street. Pissing it down. Only shelter is eave of this fucking restaurant. GPS won't lock so not a fucking clue where I am. Let's try rebooting, that only takes ages and sometimes fixes random broken shit.

1712 Wandered. Rebooted. Got GPS fix. Apparently I am in Turkey, somewhere south of Corum.

1744 Here, grudging thanks to Google Maps and none to the HTC Desire Z GPS. Street gate is an unlabelled unprepossessing brown gate but on checking the confirmation e-mail it does mention this. Am now in though they owe me 50 GEL as they didn't have change. Room quite nice, it is en suite for about twenty quid a night. Been raving like a loon ever since thrown off bus, I'd put it down to low blood sugar but I had some peanuts on the bus. Rain continues but mainly just spitting now.

1754 What do you fucking know, I tried Foursquare and the GPS is magically now behaving itself, including on Google Maps. I have to assume this is a Roger Rabbit kind of deal - it can only start working when it would be funny.

Not going to take passport out tonight for possibly ill-defined reasons. However, there is nothing in the room with a hole in to chain my bag to, but I will just have to risk it. The wardrobe door handle will have to do; it could be trivially unscrewed but there you go. In reality anyone who is in the room would have time to crack the combination locks on the bag, this is just making things very slightly harder.

1844 Walked for food. Not seen one proper restaurant yet. I tell a lie, one just past this place (probably) but no menu outside and sign only in Georgian. So in "Gold Bar 1" with a GEL5 can of Efes Pilsner sheltering from rain which has picked up a treat. Oldish men at one table now talking with young attractivish woman from behind bar. No English spoken but got word 'ludi' for beer from online dictionary.

Wish I'd thought to check weather forecast before leaving hotel (this and last place style themselves guesthouses, actually). I guess I might have this beer and if the weather is still crap another and after that I might wander in desperation anyway or perhaps give up on cooked food tonight. I have a chocolate bar left back in my bag and I can probably find a shop anyway.

Unless guide book or internet offers somewhere in town to do it, will have to get taxi out to train station 5km out of town to buy ticket tomorrow so it's all sorted for Wednesday. I suspect the three taxi rides involved in getting the train will comfortably outweigh the price of the train ticket itself. I might be able to get a bus back into town, I suppose.

I hope it's not going to piss it down for the next two days. I am already getting a slight Skegness off-season vibe. Some impressive buildings though if it stops raining to allow me to appreciate them.

Oh, somewhere between Zugdidi and Batumi I saw a van which said (in Spanish) 'quality frozen food delivered direct to your home'. It was only after that the oddness of it struck me. (Don't know if it was a similar deal, but there were a few vans labelled in what looked like German in Mestia.)

Maroon 5 'She Will Be Loved' playing. Apt. "I don't mind spending every day out on the corner in the pouring rain."

Feel slightly conspicuous here but it's OK, quite nice really. If I'd had something proper to eat I'd be fairly happy to sit here for a few beers. Quite frankly I might end up doing that anyway.

I doubt anyone cares, but I guess with it pissing down it is completely understandable for someone to just take shelter in here.

Passed a few kebab places on the way here (perhaps because this is near Turkey??) but was hoping for a proper restaurant. If push comes to shove may brave one of those later, but obviously only if it stops raining, even if I eat it at home not having a sodden kebab.

1918 Robbie Williams, Angels.

1923 "Feel". I think it's stopped raining. I'm going to have another beer here anyway.

Some Spanish song playing now. The Zugdidi-Mestia driver had a couple of Spanish tracks on his MP3 player too.

1933 Not sure if has stopped raining. The heavy dripping from the doorway has stopped but someone just walked past with an umbrella.

Saw the Black Sea earlier, we drove past it and got thrown off bus by the port and cable car station. Former should have helped with map but didn't, latter not shown on map.

I still feel sort of damp, not sure if I am or it's just cold wetness of jacket. It is more-or-less waterproof but not sure it is completely so. (Wasn't advertised as waterproof, £15 at Primark job, it's just that kind of fabric which more-or-less is.)

Quite a few cows in road Mestia-Zugdidi. They just have no fear at all of being run over. One was sat down and didn't budge. I guess they're a bit more substantial than something like a dog or cat, but I'm sure they'd still fare badly in a collision.

1950 Can hardly believe it's only been a week since I left work. It feels almost unimaginably remote. Be interesting to be back in the UK, albeit briefly, next weekend. Haven't a clue what the weather is like there. Guess I should enjoy the cold while I can, as I expect Thailand and India to be far too much the other way.

Oh, the room (at hotel) has a radiator here! Evidently it is controlled centrally, and I don't know if they will turn it on, or if it will be needed (I think it's more damp than outright cold), but still, this is the first time I have seen one in Georgia.

"She Will Be Loved" playing again. Small CD collection?

2026 Nearly finished second beer. I am very much tempted, and probably will, to have another here and maybe even a fourth, and see if I can get food on the way home and if not no big deal. I had a decent breakfast, the peanuts are not a long term substitute for a proper diet but supplied a lot of calories, ditto the beer (squared) and I have a chocolate bar to sustain me if I get cravings tonight. I feel sort of relaxed and stuff here and tomorrow I can get my bearings and find a proper restaurant or something. Four beers in a night is hardly an epic bender, even if I go that far, and what the hell. It's Sunday night and probably off-season and I'm not super optimistic about the amount of places that will be open anyway, never mind wandering around in the drizzle to find them.

2038 Got another. I am paying as I go, maybe cos thats how it works here or cos I offered money when I first came in at bar. Every time the waitress carefully comes back to the table and gives me the receipt. Maybe Georgian expense accounts are the things a contractor dreams of. Bit quiet in here and I feel stupidly guilty but fuck it, they're clearly not shutting and while I'd like to eat, I don't much like the idea of wandering blindly around the streets hoping to find somewhere open.

Noticed earlier the table has a little light switch. Other tables don't. Maybe it's just poor placement of a room switch. Not tried flicking it and not going to.Thought it might turn light above table on but if other tables don't have one maybe not. Don't need it anyway since I am reading Round The World On A Wheel on my phone, i.e. something which is self-illuminating.

2106 Someone just said something to me. Not sure if they are closed or not. I think  not but it's just me and two women here. Dictionary word for 'closed' didn't mean with much understanding. I asked and they don't speak Spanish;x not likely but worth a try. They haven't turned lights on so I will assume I am OK; if they offer to serve me another beer I will have it, otherwise will go. Maybe was just an attempt to make contact. This whole 'not speaking the language at all' business is certainly an experience.

2119 It's probably just my obsession with being in bars when they want to close but the casual enjoyment of just sitting here is gone. Just me and the waitress/bartender woman now. I think I might go after this one. Bit of a shame either way, just because of the uncertainty. You'd think she'd turn the lights on if she's closing, I have an idea (possibly wrong of course) that's universal. Last woman went out shutting the door, but a physically closed door is hardly nominally significant given this weather. Meh. I doubt I could have done any better here had I got to lesson 20 of the Georgian course.

2353 In bed. Bar seemed to be shutting. Wandered. Big neon sign for karaoke bar restaurant, a few people in there. Basically whole town seemed dead except for two uber-local looking places. Even kebab places seemed closed. I bought some doritos, TUC bacon biscuits and a carton of grapefruit juice at a shop and got a warmed through khatchapuri-cum-keema-naan at a pseudo kebab shop. Woman acted all frightened when I stepped on a rock (making no noise) in street near hostel. I said (in Georgian) 'I am English' (and thus harmless, natch) and waved arms deprecatingly. Ate virtually all that snack food and feel sick. No hot water in shower. Bit hacked off.Writing this just for completness. Got back here about 2200-2230, left bar soon after last entry.